In early times Naples was Greek. Temple and theatre, one can only see in them the hand of antiquity and the great miracle is that they still remain accessible to us. Filled with wonder as we gaze about us, we can not help thinking that it must have been the Greeks who planned this gulf and its surroundings. Knowing old Vesuvius and what his tricks must have been in prehistoric times, we still fail to see in this perfect bay, any traces of upheavals to make a shiver of awe chill our admiration.
The Piazza del Plebiscite is the best work of the Baroque in Naples. Look at it for what it is, but it lays no hold on the memory. Old Pizzofalcone, on the contrary, still holds up its head between ancient and modern Naples, watching over the bay of Santa Lucia, filled in and built upon with fine new quays and modern hotels, still retaining the appearance that gave rise to its name the "Falcon's Beard." This fortified castle, seen from all parts of the city, seems to watch over us, too, and to wish to protect us, like the carabinieri on days when the emotions of the people are likely to run high a preventive or, at least, a menacing protection.
Not until the early part of the thirteenth century, during the reign of Frederick II., who founded the University of Naples, did the modern Italian language begin to be formed. The first dawn of Italian literature appeared in the territory of Naples among its Greek colonies ; and a long and noble line of writers, who greatly enriched the learning of the world, were born here. Zaleucus declares himself a native of Locri ; Pythagoras of Croton, where he established his school of philosophy ; Archytas was of Tarentum, and Alexis of Sibarum. Of later authors, Ennius, Cicero, Sallust, Vitruvius, Ovid, Horace, and Cassiodorus, as well as men famed for their science and learning, first saw the light beneath the skies of the Neapolitan peninsula.
Naples still possesses some splendid monuments to the reigns of the first two rulers of this dynasty. Charles I. devoted himself to making this city a place of importance, with more energy than his predecessors had shown. He removed the seat of government from Palermo thither, thus making Naples the centre of the kingdom, and extended the city on the east as far as the Piazza del Mercato. He filled in the marshes between the ancient walls and the sea, and in 1283 founded the Castel Nuovo ; this became a royal residence, and was adorned and strengthened from time to time during five centuries. In 1862 a portion of its fortifications were condemned to demolition because of the possibility of their being used for the destruction of the city, and the outer walls and bastions have been removed.
Who is there, visiting Naples for the first time, who does not look eagerly forward to the moment which will bring him face to face with Vesuvius, the only active volcano of the European continent. Solemn is the impression made on the distant beholder when that moment arrives. Massive and grand, surmounted by a pillar of smoke, Vesuvius stands out against the clear sky, forming a dark and gloomy background to the blue sea, the fruitful fields, and the gleaming city beyond, which lies smiling at its feet as if in defiant mockery. Still more impressive is the scene by night when we see flames rising and falling amid the smoke, now shooting upwards like a sheaf of fiery darts, disappearing with equal suddenness, then blazing up anew with redoubled force, or remaining steadilx, for a time, like a crown of fire on the mountain-top. When, in addition, a stream of glowing lava flows slowly down, like a broad red banner, from a rent in the mountain's side, there are few who will not contemplate with shuddering awe the working of those hidden forces of nature which proclaim to us clearly, though in on unknown tongue, the existence of that mysterious inner fire which burns on for ever in the centre of our terrestrial ball.